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Tachometer PA-30

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 Kate
Admin
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 138
Topic starter  
#107361 Trash | Reply
Thierry Verhaaren

Participant

My twin tachometer is showing some weaknesses.
The Right needle oscillates around its final position after sudden rpm changes (magnetos checks, propeller checks).
Does anyone have a diagnostic idea or a spare tachometer for sale Consolidated Instrument Co P/N57-5AW?
or propose a replacement?
Thanks
Thierry Verhaaren
N48AR


   
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Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 9
 
I got this email from Pat Barry who is having difficulty logging into this forum (as was I).
He asked me if I could post this answer to your question about Tach cables.
Dave Clark
 
Dave, can you let this poster know that WD anything is petroleum based and is absolutely the wrong material to use to lubricate engine compartment cabled since the engine heat carbonizes the lubricant and it becomes gooey and binds the cable. He needs to use a synthetic lubricant like Mother's Milk (or better) and he needs to soak it into the cable through a plastic tube that is secured with tie tapes or similar so he can pour the lubricant down the tube and it flows into the cable sheath. It is better if someone inside can remove the cable from the back of the instrument and wiggle it in and out so as to encourage the lubricant to get deeper into the cable sheath.
 
The cable binds because the lubricant has dried so the lubricant must be replaced. Usually, the dry area is forward of the firewall. The farther that the new lube can be encouraged to travel the better one will be. 
 
Pat Barry

   
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 Kate
Admin
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 138
Topic starter  

 

  • #107408 Trash | Reply
    Patric Barry

    Participant

    That is, typically, a cable that is biding, not the display.

    You would try to lubricate the cable from the engine compartment back. I use a synthetic lubricant (Mother’s Milk is suitable) and I apply it by removing the cable at the engine, putting a clear plastic tube over the cable, using tie tapes to crimp the plastic down as tight as I can make it, then I pour the lubricant down the plastic tube so that it goes inside your sleeve of the tach cable. The dryness that causes the cable to bind (which is what your problem sounds like) is caused by heat from the engine compartment. You do NOT use a petroleum based lubricant, like oil etc. It should be a synthetic lubricant and work it into the tube and, in turn, into the cable assembly, as best that you can. To assist the function, you could even have your mechanic open up the panel, remove the cable from the back of the tachometer, and work it back and forth so it assists the lubricant to get farther into the cable assembly. As you do this, you will see black gunk coming out of the assembly into the clear tube as you pour the lubricant into the tube, and this shows that the old goo is coming ut and the new lube is going in.’
    This should last you some years – perhaps five, before you need to do this again. The same procedure applies to all of the cables – they must all be lubricated when they start to bind.

    Pat Barry

  • #107410 Trash | Reply
    Thierry Verhaaren

    Participant

    Thank you very much for your advice. I had already sprayed all engine control cables with WD80 hoping that it would penetrate into it. Not enough apparently.
    Thierry

 


   
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