Does anybody have advice on getting the right fuel tank gage out of the panel for repair without removing the entire cluster, windscreen, or panel ?
My right fuel quanitiy needs re-calibration/repair as it's reading 1/4 high on both aux and mains. I've had the sender repaired etc so now it's a gage problem. I can't get to the 2 outboard screws/nuts to remove the cluster and i can't get to the back of the back of the gage by going under the glarshied. Help ? The maint/parts manual are not help.bernie

Can u remove the glare shield ? If so you can get to the nuts behind the cluster.
We do have the ashby glare shield so that makes access fairly easy. I also have to remove the rpm and manifold gauge. It's a bit tight, but very doable. Hope that helps

i DID THAT BUT THE GLARSHIED OPENING DOESN'T ALLOW ACCESS TO
THE CLUSTERS OUTBOARD NUTS. REMOVING THE MAP/ RPM GAGE DOESN'T HELP.
HOWS IS THE GAGE HELD INTO THE CLUSTER ? A HANDHOLD ABOVE THE GAGE WOULD ALLOW ACCESS BUT THERE ISN'T ENOUGH ROOM FOR A 90 DEGREE SCREWDRIVER AND THE WINDSCREEN TO GET IT OUT. THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE BERNIE

Here is a picture of ours, this on a carbureted 250. With the glare shield removed there is enough access to get at least one hand in there. Our cluster is held to the panel with I believe 6/32 screws with nuts on te back side. One on each side.

I have a twin and the gage is located to the far right side of the panel. Taking out the rpm/map (which are to the left of the gage cluster) doesn't help. Thanks for the response and pic. bernie

Bernie, the cluster has to come out to remove the gauges. It is possible to get the far nuts using a 1/4 inch socket and Zi believe I may have used a flex drive extension, but not sure. After disconnecting the oil pressure lines and moving them aside a bit, you can get your hand and a socket on the nuts. If you still can't get at them, you can drill the heads off the screws and take out the cluster that way. Like I said I was able to get a socket on them... I do remember I was cursing my big hands at that time as well, so it wasn't easy. I crazy glued new nuts onto the back of the cluster to ease the install later...the crazy glue will hold the nuts in place to allow you to thread the new screws back in when reinstalling the cluster.
Here is a picture of the back of the cluster, you can see that there is enough room to get a socket and extension onto the far screws.

Oh Gary - thank you for posting. I wondered what the back of these looked like. I'm sure ours aren't quite so pretty and it sure explains why APLH said be careful who you have work on this ...

I pulled mine yesterday. As the above post said, remove the oil line and move them out of the way. I used a 1/4 inch socket with a small flex handle driver and reached over and down the far side to get to the nuts. The gotcha was the small screw heads suggesting a #6 screw and a 5/16 socket. They were #8 screws and the nuts needed an 11/32 socket. Once I got that figured out it took less than 5 minutes.