I have found there are 3 different areas that could cause this issue for all you future break experts out there...lol... I formulad this information  by actually tearing the entire assembly apart and I mean the entire assembly from the wheels to the break peddles.

1. Like stated before, make sure the 4 bolts (that are safety wired) are not to tight...but even if they are snug (Torqued) at the required inch pounds there should still be a little play in the caliper housing. about 1/32" to 1/16" of play.

2. Sometime a  shim ( which I made 3) from tracing out the pattern and cutting and drilling the 4 holes, can help if the torque is good and they are still a bit too snug. There has to be a bit of play in the wheel.

3. Now this is the best part.... The pressure plate is sometimes the reason for the wheel not spinning freely. I found this out through bitter experience....doing all the above, getting the breaks to operate properly with the same amount of peddle pressure...then after flying only to find "Miss Guided" wanting to keep running  off to the left of the taxiway...so...back up on the jacks for #4.

4. Here is the grand finale boys and girls....the little hole that the pressure plate retaining screw that has the sleeve, spring and lock nut on it goes through the caliper...it has a split bushing that it goes through that's in the caliper.. After careful inspection i could see the bushing was too far in and keeping the pressure plate from retracting...thus keeping the inside break pads tight up against the disk and burning up the paint on my "brand new" replace disk that I bought to replace the riveted type.

Great kit by the way. I was actually thinking about doing the same thing with a set of Revco pads after removing the old disk and rivets...but it's not legal and you know how those insurance guys can be...lol...!

Any ole way, that little spit bushing should move freely so it needs to be removed, cleaned, lightly sanded (if needed) , lubed and placed back in the caliper housing (thanks to input from my buddy Phil at Webco)...and WA-LA...Bob's your Uncle...!

Now all I have to do is bleed the breaks from the bottom up (as per the shop manual and my GURU Pat Berry).  I figured out what you have to do in order to get a piece of hose to fit in the little hole where the bleed screw is on the older type of Comanches. Are you ready for this..16oz hand oil can (Amazon 9.99), 2 @ 1/2" screw clamps, 1' of clear 3/16" (.39) hose...and now the the part that make's it all work...the screw that fits in the hole has to be a 10/24 x 3/8" VENTED Cap head socket screw.(M5x.8mm) Granger pak of 5 @ $6.99. I added a very small o-ring from an old emergency brake master cylinder inner spring pressure rod to keep it from leaking while I pumped the new oil in.

@14347 Nice writeup and thorough